In an exclusive interview with Chef Jason Atherton, we go behind the scenes on Row on 45’s impressive rise and his vision for the restaurant
Chef Jason Atherton’s Row on 45 has cemented its place in the upper ranks of fine dining, underscored by its rise in the Middle East & North Africa’s 50 Best Restaurants 2025 list, recognition from Gault&Millau, and the coveted Restaurant of the Year award. The two-Michelin-starred restaurant has not only upheld its stature among the region’s culinary elite but has also secured the Highest Climber Award, soaring from No. 41 to No. 17 in just a year. Adding to its accolades, Row on 45 has been awarded 4 toques. To mark these triumphs, the restaurant brings forth an exclusive new menu, continuing its tradition of surprise and creativity, with dishes unveiled only upon arrival. Ahead, we sit down with Chef Jason Atherton to unpack the restaurant’s success, its latest creations, and what’s next.
How would you describe the journey?
It’s been a really busy year. We’ve opened four restaurants in London and continue to push Row on 45 here. We’ve been very fortunate to win many awards and to be recommended by lots of people, so the restaurant’s fully booked.
City Social has also just got better and better. We’re hoping to be a permanent fixture in the city, which was always the goal. It’s been really awe-inspiring. Sometimes, you sit and think about things too much, but it’s also important to take a step back and give yourself a little pat on the back. It’s been a very stressful year, but in the end, it’s been great.
What do you think have been the changes or strategies that have influenced it?
The first year we opened, it was about bringing the menu to a really high level. But we couldn’t mess around with the food too much because we had to get the service right, the wine cellar—you know, the whole thing has to feel like a ballet, right? That’s why we ended up getting the scores we did with Gault&Millau, 50 Best, and Michelin. But at the same time, we knew we had more in the tank.
So this year, we’ve opened up the tank a little bit. We’ve honed in on the recipes—they’re more sophisticated, more intense on the palate. The ingredients have gone up another level, and we’ve had time as a development team to really get into the bones of the dishes, you know? Making sure people taste them like it’s nothing they’ve ever had before.
I’m old enough to know that you just count your blessings, take your wins, and never believe for a single second that you’ve made it. It’s a constant battle to keep the restaurants full, and if you take that approach, then goodness comes out of it.
Could you tell us more about the new menu that’s launching?
It’s springtime, so we’ve got all the gorgeous Japanese strawberries coming in. We’ve got this really unusual fish, Kapadia, on the menu, and the San Sebastián peas, which are more expensive than golden caviar. We follow the Japanese food and vegetable calendar, so we’ve got lots of incredible ingredients coming in from Japan.
Japanese wood mushrooms are arriving soon, and we’re using those with a truffle sauce we preserved when they were in season. So there are lots of really interesting flavour combinations we’re excited about. We’ve also perfected our homemade tofu rather than shipping it in because it’s better when it’s made fresh. It’s best eaten on the same day it’s made—imported tofu from Japan is still delicious, but it’s just not quite as good by the time it gets here.
How do you handle creative blocks?
If you ever speak to anyone who’s been successful in the creative world, they’ll tell you it’s full of fits and starts. It’s really important to get used to it and learn how to handle it.
When I get creative blocks, I don’t try to force it. Because if you force it, you just get frustrated, and nothing good comes of that. So if I have a block, I just go, “Okay, let’s leave it for now. There’s no point in pushing it.” I’m very lucky to have a development team that’s willing to buy into what I want, so I can lean on them. But there are also times when it’s just overdrive—your creativity goes into overdrive, and that’s when you really need to take advantage of it. If I have a day like that, I’ll just spend the day being creative.
What excites you the most about the culinary scene here, and what are the challenges?
The challenge is staying ahead of the game in such a fast-paced city. The turnover of customers means you’ve constantly got to be on the PR wagon; that’s the difference compared to London. You’re always promoting the restaurant, making sure the new batch of people coming in know where it is, what it offers, and so on.
The positives? The sun shines every day, we get great produce, and it’s a very welcoming place. When we won at Gault&Millau, everyone celebrated our success with us, which was just wonderful. You don’t get that everywhere in the world, right?
How do you approach mentorship and showing young talent that comes in?
Mentorship comes with a sense of security. Once you feel secure in your career and stable as a leader, the most important thing is to share knowledge. People who don’t share knowledge are often insecure and tend to have a narcissistic approach to life, focused solely on their own success, believing no one else should succeed. This is a very insular way of thinking.
If you’ve been gifted with success, creativity, and expertise in your field, those who aspire to work with you will look up to you. Not only do they want to emulate you as a chef, but they also seek guidance on how to behave. The fortunate ones who succeed understand the value of their talent. I take mentorship seriously and believe that each restaurant should not revolve around the chef, the manager, or the sommelier, but rather the entire team. From ensuring the person washing the plates takes pride in their work, to making sure they’re included in the success and recognition. When we perform well, and I’m not sure if we’re allowed to talk about money, the team benefits from excellent tips and fair compensation. They take pride in their role and in caring for others.
This is achieved through leadership, not by shouting, screaming, or threatening when mistakes are made. It’s about respect and pride in their work.
How do you manage the expectations that come with operating a highly celebrated restaurant?
At Row on 45, managing expectations starts with a commitment to consistency and excellence across all aspects of the dining experience. The 17-course tasting menu is designed to showcase seasonal ingredients and global culinary influences, with every dish crafted with precision, creativity, and a dedication to quality. We follow strict standards and processes, including regular training and close collaboration among chefs, to ensure that each plate consistently meets the highest of expectations.
Service is equally prioritised, and we operate with a small, highly trained team that delivers personalised and attentive service. By maintaining well-defined service protocols, conducting ongoing staff development, and encouraging continuous feedback, we ensure that our service is as reliable and exceptional as our food.
Every detail, from the food and ambience to guest interactions, is carefully coordinated to ensure each visit surpasses our guests’ expectations, making sure each dining experience remains exceptional, no matter how many times they return.
How does Row on 45 approach challenges like food waste and ethical ingredient sourcing?
Our commitment to sustainability is evident through our emphasis on seasonal and locally sourced ingredients, ensuring both freshness and reduced environmental impact, while supporting local producers where we can. We carefully select suppliers who align with our values, prioritising those who practice sustainable farming and production methods. By thoughtfully sourcing our ingredients, we offer a dining experience that is both innovative and respectful of global culinary traditions.
In your experience, what’s an underrated skill or mindset that young chefs should focus on to excel in this industry?
Consistency and patience are paramount to a young chef in this industry – whether that’s perfecting a dish or just working on a technique, it’s about putting in the time and understanding the importance of hard work.
And of course, passion! It has to be the number one drive for young chefs starting out in their careers – without it, you’ll very quickly learn that the industry isn’t for you.
What’s your vision for Row on 45?
We want Row on 45 to continue to be a great restaurant. We don’t just want to be considered the very best in the Middle East—we want the Middle East to have a restaurant it’s proud of, one that’s recognised as one of the very best in the world.
What’s the legacy you want to leave?
If I could one day retire from the Dubai scene, it would mean having created something truly exceptional. When we first came here, we opened the very first fine dining restaurant in the city, a feat led by Gordon Ramsay. To retire at the very top—to have created a restaurant that reached the pinnacle in 50 Best, Michelin and various other prestigious lists—would mean the world.
It’s not just about personal achievement; it’s about the legacy of the restaurant, the story of Dubai’s culinary journey. Dubai is now a city of dreams, a place where you can build a successful life in a safe, vibrant environment. It offers everything you need—great transport hubs, incredible opportunities, and a city that has everything going for it.
To be considered as having created the greatest restaurant of that time, and to inspire the next generation of chefs and food enthusiasts, would be a dream come true. But there’s a lot of work to do before reaching that point. It’s important to have goals, but it’s just as important to enjoy the journey. If you focus solely on the destination, you miss out on the process—the journey is just as meaningful.
